Izwe lemfashini libhekane nobunzima obukhulu kuleli sonto. UJohn Galliano, umklami wemfashini waseGibraltar ophikisanayo, umemezele ukuthi uyahoxa ekubukeni kabusha okukhulu okwakuhlelwe yiMetropolitan Museum of Art eNew York (the Met) entwasahlobo ka-2027. Lo mbukiso, onesihloko esithi 'John Galliano: Horizons', wawuhloselwe ukuba umcimbi obalulekile emsebenzini wakhe, kodwa ngeke usaqhubeka. Umklami ngokwakhe umemezele lesi sinqumo ngomyalezo omfushane kuphrofayela yakhe ye-Instagram, lapho asuse khona konke okuthunyelwe kwangaphambilini, washiya isitatimende esisemthethweni kuphela.
Lesi sinqumo asizange sibamangaze labo ababesazi ngempikiswano eyayivele emasontweni amuva nje. Umphakathi wamaJuda waseNew York kanye nabanikeli abaningana bemyuziyamu baveze ukungajabuli kwabo ngokuthi isikhungo esidumile kangaka singadumisa umuntu onomlando kaGalliano. Lo mklami oneminyaka engu-65 ubudala waxoshwa eDior ngo-2011 ngemuva kokuvela kwamavidiyo ambonisa edakiwe ngokusobala, ekhuluma izinhlamba ezimelene namaJuda kanye nobandlululo. Leso siqephu saphawula ushintsho olukhulu emsebenzini wakhe, futhi manje sesibuyile ukuze simhluphe.
Isitatimende esishintsha konke
Esitatimendeni sakhe, uGalliano wayefuna ukucacisa ukuthi isinqumo sasingesakhe nokuthi wasenza ngemva kokucabangisisa kakhulu. Umklami ugcizelela ukuthi uyaqhubeka nokuthwala umthwalo wemfanelo ogcwele ngobuhlungu obubangelwe amazwi akhe adlule, ikakhulukazi emiphakathini yamaJuda neyase-Asia. Uyavuma ukuthi umbukiso, noma ngabe ubaluleke kangakanani, awukwazi ukususa okwenzekile noma ubonise ukuzisola kwangempela. Eqinisweni, uqinisekisa ukuthi isinxephezelo sangempela siyinto ebonakaliswa usuku nosuku, ngokuziphatha komuntu ngokuhamba kwesikhathi.
Lesi sitatimende sihlanganisa nokubonga okusuka enhliziyweni eqenjini le-Met, ikakhulukazi uMax Hollein, u-Andrew Bolton, no-Anna Wintour. UGalliano ubonga kakhulu ngenhlonipho yokuba nombukiso onikezelwe kuye yisikhungo abesihlonipha impilo yakhe yonke. Kodwa-ke, uyaqonda ukuthi impikiswano emzungezile ingafaka imyuziyamu esimweni esinzima futhi iphazamise umsebenzi we-Costume Institute. Ngakho-ke, ngokudabuka okukhulu, unqume ukuhoxa.
Isithunzi sika-2011
Ukuze siqonde okwenzekile, kufanele sibuyele emuva ku-2011. UGalliano waboshwa eParis ngemuva kwengxabano endaweni yokudlela lapho akhuluma khona amazwi okuhlambalaza amaJuda, okuhlanganisa nemisho efana nokuthi “Ngiyamthanda uHitler.” Lesi sigameko sathathwa kuvidiyo futhi sasakazwa ngokushesha, okwaholela ekuxoshweni kwakhe ngokushesha kuChristian Dior, lapho ayekade engumqondisi wokudala iminyaka eyi-15. Walahlekelwa nendlu yakhe yemfashini futhi walahlwa yinkantolo yaseFrance ngokuthuka umphakathi ngokusekelwe kubuhlanga, inkolo, noma imvelaphi yobuzwe.
Lo mklami ubelokhu egcizelela ukuthi ukuziphatha kwakhe kwakuthonywe izinkinga zakhe notshwala nezinye izidakamizwa. Ngemva kwalesi sihlava, uGalliano wavuselelwa e-Arizona futhi wanyamalala emphakathini isikhashana. Ukubuyela kwakhe emfashinini akuzange kufike ngo-2014, lapho uMaison Margiela emnika indima yomqondisi wokudala. Wahlala lapho iminyaka eyishumi, kwaze kwaba nguDisemba 2024, futhi wakwazi ukubuyisa udumo lwakhe olulahlekile ngamaqoqo ayehlonishwa kakhulu ngabagxeki.
Izingcindezi nezinsongo
Ukukhanselwa kombukiso kwakungeyona isinqumo esithathwe kalula. Ngokusho kwe-New York Times, abaphathiswa be-Met namalungu ebhodi babechithe amasonto bezama ukunciphisa umonakalo obangelwe ukumenyezelwa kokubuyela emuva. Abaholi bamaJuda eNew York nakwezinye izindawo babezwakalise ukuphikisana kwabo nalo msebenzi, kanti abanye abanikeli basongela ngokuhoxisa iminikelo yabo yezezimali emnyuziyamu uma umbukiso uqhubeka. Kwakukhona ngisho nenkulumo yokushintsha usuku lwe-Met Gala ka-2027, eyayihlelelwe uMsombuluko wokuqala ngoMeyi.
Elinye lamazwi agxeke kakhulu kube ngelikaJulie Menin, umongameli weMkhandlu Wedolobha laseNew York kanye nendodakazi yowasinda ekuQothulweni Kwesizwe. UMenin ubize isinqumo semyuziyamu ngokuthi "yiphutha elikhulu" futhi wathumela incwadi ezikhulwini zeMet ebanxusa ukuba bacabange kabusha. Umnikazi wegalari u-Arne Glimcher naye wasongela ukususa imyuziyamu encwadini yakhe yefa, kanti u-Elisha Wiesel, indodana yombhali kanye nowathola umklomelo weNobel Peace Prize u-Elie Wiesel, waphikisana nombukiso obala.
Ukusekelwa kuka-Anna Wintour
Naphezu kwempikiswano, uGalliano uthole ukwesekwa okungapheli komunye wabesifazane abanamandla kakhulu embonini yemfashini. U-Anna Wintour, umqondisi wokuhlela womhlaba wonke we-Vogue kanye nomhleli we-Met Gala kusukela ngo-1995, ubize isinqumo somklami ngokuthi "sinesibindi kakhulu" futhi waqinisekisa ukuthi yena kanye nomnyuziyamu banomsekeli wakhe ogcwele. Ngokombono wakhe, umsebenzi kaGalliano awuchazwa yisikhashana nje, futhi umcabango wakhe ongenamkhawulo kanye nobuciko bakhe obuhle kumenza abe ngomunye wabaklami abavelele kakhulu besizukulwane sakhe.
UMax Hollein, umqondisi kanye ne-CEO yeMetropolitan Museum of Art, naye usesekele isinqumo sikaGalliano. UHollein uthe, ngemuva kokucabangisisa kahle nomklami kanye nabathintekayo abaningi, uyavuma ukuthi lesi akusona isikhathi esifanele sokubamba umbukiso. Imyuziyamu iqinisekisile ukuthi imininingwane yombukiso omusha wasentwasahlobo we-Costume Institute kanye nesihloko se-2027 Met Gala kuzomenyezelwa ngosuku olulandelayo.
Ikusasa elingaqinisekile
Ukukhanselwa kokubuyekezwa kwamuva kuza ngesikhathi esibucayi kakhulu kuGalliano. Umklami usanda kusayina ukubambisana kweminyaka emibili noZara, uhlobo oluhamba phambili lwe-Inditex , ukuze bachaze kabusha futhi baklame kabusha izingcezu zakudala kule ilebula. Iqoqo lokuqala elivela kulobu budlelwano lizokwethulwa ngoSepthemba futhi kulindeleke ukuthi libe ngenye yezinkampani ezibaluleke kakhulu zonyaka embonini yemfashini. Lokhu kubambisana, okwamenyezelwa ngoMashi, kuphawula ukubuyela kukaGalliano phambili kwemfashini ngemuva kokushiya kwakhe uMaison Margiela.
Kodwa-ke, isithunzi sesikhathi sakhe esidlule siyaqhubeka nokumhlupha umklami. Isinqumo sakhe sokuhoxa ekuhlonipheni iMet singaphazamisa ukulungiswa kwakhe okuphelele kwezenhlalo , okwakubonakala sengathi sekuseduze nokuphothulwa ngokubheka emuva. UGalliano, okhulume ngokusobala ngeminyaka yakhe eyishumi nanhlanu yokungaphuzi utshwala nokululama ekuluthweni kotshwala, kuzodingeka aqhubeke nokukhombisa ngezenzo zakhe ukuthi ukuphenduka kwakhe kuyiqiniso. Okwamanje, izwe lemfashini liyazibuza ukuthi kuzokwenzekani ngomsebenzi wakhe nokuthi uzoke athole ukuqashelwa kwesikhungo akulangazelela kakhulu.
Le mpikiswano ivule kabusha impikiswano ebonakala ixazululiwe. Ingabe umklami onomlando ophikisana kangaka angathethelelwa futhi ahlonishwe yizikhungo? Impendulo, okungenani okwamanje, ibonakala ingucha. UGalliano unqume ukuyeka futhi alahle lokho okungenzeka ukuthi kwakuwukuqashelwa okubaluleke kakhulu emsebenzini wakhe. Kodwa indaba yakhe ibonisa ukuthi, ezweni lemfashini, amathuba esibili akhona, noma ngabe ngezinye izikhathi ukulinda kukude kunalokho obekulindelekile.
Ekugcineni, ukukhanselwa kombukiso we-'John Galliano: Horizons' kuyinguquko engalindelekile emsebenzini womunye wabaklami abanekhono kakhulu nabaphikisanayo emashumini eminyaka amuva nje. UGalliano ukhethe ukuhoxa esikhundleni sokubeka iMet esimweni esibucayi , futhi ukhombisile ukuthi, okungenani ephepheni, uyaqhubeka nokuthwala umthwalo wemfanelo wamaphutha akhe adlule. Manje, njengoba ukubambisana noZara sekuseduze, uzoba nethuba lokufakazela ukuthi ithalente lakhe alikapheli nokuthi ukuzisola kwakhe kuyiqiniso. Isikhathi sizobona ukuthi izwe lemfashini lizimisele yini ukumnika ithuba lesibili.